"Tür Upgrade" Renovation Box

The "Door Upgrade" renovation box takes on the surfaces everyone touches and no one looks at: the door leaf and the frame. It brings together re-box's satin-finish paint with the accessories you actually need for a door. There's no need to take it off its hinges — the door stays put, and you work standing up.

What you'll work with on the door

The paint is re-box protect, the furniture and gloss paint in a 750 ml container: satin-finish and resistant to mechanical stress, everyday dirt and outside influences. Before that comes a step many people skip — the primer re-box core, which adheres well to a wide variety of surfaces. First core, then protect: with paint, this order isn't a suggestion, it's the build-up.

Here's what needs to be on the table before the first screw comes out:

• 👉 paint in the shade you've chosen and primer for the whole surface
• 👉 a fine Sanding Block – Grit 220 for the initial and in-between sanding
• 👉 Paint Brush 35 mm - Synthetic Bristle for edges, rebates and profiles
• 👉 a small paint roller for panels and smooth door leaves
• 👉 a screwdriver for the handle, rose and door plates
• 👉 tape and film for the frame, seal, floor and glass panels
• 👉 a lint-free cloth and water for removing dust between sandings
• 👉 a wedge or a book to keep the door open while it dries

Why paint works on a door and wall paint doesn't

A door gets touched, bumped, pushed open with a foot and wiped down with a cloth. Matte wall paint is made for surfaces no one touches — it has no place on a door. Satin-finish paint forms a closed layer on the wood and stands up to daily wear.

The sheen level has a second effect: it highlights every unevenness. That's why preparation determines the result, not the paint. When it comes to shade, you have a free choice. White remains the calmest option, such as Blanc Épuré No. 55 Lack or the slightly broken Craie Ancienne No. 60 Lack. If you want to make a real statement in the hallway, Gutter Black No. 33 Lack sets a bold contrast against a light wall. The full range is under Lacquer Colours, with the light shades sorted under Lacquer Colours White. By the way, this same shade is also available as a wall paint, in case you'd like the door and wall to match.

Seven steps to a new door

1. Unscrew the fittings instead of painting over them

Handle, rosettes and door plates come off in five minutes and save you a good half hour of fiddling with the brush. Put the screws in a bowl, not on the windowsill. Tape off the hinges and the seal.

2. Clean and degrease

There's hand grease around the handle and dust sitting on top of the frame. Both stop the paint from holding. Wipe down the whole door with a damp cloth and let it dry fully before sanding.

3. Key the surface until the sheen is gone

Old lacquered surfaces are sanded matt so the primer can grip. You don't need to sand right back — it's only about removing the sheen. Remove every trace of sanding dust afterwards, or it'll work its way into the first coat.

4. Apply the primer

re-box core goes on thin and even over the whole surface, edges and rebates included. It's the first step before the lacquer and the reason the paint won't give up at the lock edge later on. Let it dry fully before moving on.

5. First coat, in a fixed order

For panel doors, the rule is: panels first, then the horizontal rails, and the vertical stiles last. That way each new start lands on a surface that's still wet. Apply the lacquer thin — two thin coats beat one thick one.

6. Sand between coats, then apply the second

Once the first coat is fully dry, go over it lightly with a fine sanding block and wipe off the dust. It feels like unnecessary work, and it's exactly what separates "did it myself" from "looks brand new". The second thin coat follows after.

7. Let it dry, then close it

Leave the door open until the lacquer is truly dry — close it too soon and it'll stick to the seal. Only fit the hardware afterwards. In most cases, the room is back to normal use after around 24 hours.

How far a 750 ml can goes

Work out your actual area instead of guessing. A door leaf measures height times width, and you're painting two sides plus the four edges: for a door of 1.98 m by 0.86 m, that's around 1.7 m² per side, so a good 3.4 m² for the leaf. The frame adds roughly half a square metre, and two coats double the total.

How many doors a 750 ml can will cover depends on the surface, the shade and how thickly you apply it — which is why we won't give you a figure that turns out to be wrong anyway. It's worth planning in a bit of reserve: every shade is mixed fresh after you order, so a top-up takes another 3 to 5 working days.

If the wall around the door is getting a refresh too, the wall paint coverage table will help:

• 2.5 L for approx. 8–10 m² with two coats
• 5 L for approx. 15–20 m² with two coats
• 10 L for approx. 30–40 m² with two coats

How to spot a door that's been painted at home

Drips along the edges. These happen when too much lacquer goes on at once and runs over the edge. Go over the edges with an almost-dry brush after every coat.

Painted-over hardware. Lacquer smudges around the handle and plate show from any distance. Unscrewing them takes less time than taping them off properly — and you'll find out how to tape properly in Richtig abkleben ohne Farbunterläufe.

Start marks across the panel. If you skip the order from step 5, you end up starting fresh on half-dry lacquer. That stays visible, even after the second coat.

A forgotten frame. A freshly painted door leaf in an old frame looks unfinished. Factor in the frame and edges from the start.

No primer, no sanding. On old, smooth lacquer, a new coat won't hold well without prep. It gives up exactly where the door meets the lock. The full process without removing the door is in Tür lackieren ohne Ausbauen.

Frequently asked questions about your door upgrade

Do I need to take the door off its hinges to paint it?
No, the door can stay hung. Unscrew the hardware, tape off the seal, cover the floor — that's all you need. Working on it unhung and lying flat is more comfortable, not better.

Do I really need a primer before the lacquer?
Yes. re-box core is the first step before re-box protect, especially on old, smooth lacquered surfaces. Without this build-up, how long it lasts is down to chance.

Does this work on doors that are already lacquered?
Yes, as long as the old coat is firmly bonded. The surface needs to be clean, dry, stable and free of any loose material; it still gets sanded regardless.

Can I see the shade beforehand?
Yes, with the Farbmusterbox 65 Stk. Hold the sample up against the closed door and look at it morning and evening — hallway light changes shades more than the light in any other room.

Can I send the box back if I don't like the colour?
No: once a box contains mixed paint, the whole box is excluded from returns. Every shade is only made after your order. That's exactly why the sample is worth getting first.